Garrigill to Middleton-in-Teesdale

Looking at the route of the Pennine Way, you might assume that today I enjoyed strikingly bleak moorland and the highest point of the Way while tomorrow's highlight will be the classic rock rimmed bowl of High Cup Nick, described as one of the country's most astonishing scenic revelations. And as someone who might claim to love being out in the hills, surely I wouldn't be missing out on these delights in order to take a short cut down an A-road and save a mere day's effort? Of course I am, not just because I'm fundamentally lazy, but also because it increases my chances of reaching Sheffield in time for a traditional family Christmas.

A good early start means the first few miles are covered in a blissful half awake state where distances are easily covered while the sleepy mind contemplates the beauty of the dawn. Tracks took me through a few remote farms and out onto the moorland, turning from stone to grass and then coated with snow. I followed the deep channel of a small stream uphill, passing old mine workings. Emerging onto the main road, I found it almost free of traffic at this time of the morning. Wandering along verges and skating across icy lay-bys, white flecked empty moorland stretched out to distant rounded domes of snow. I crossed into the land of the prince bishops before turning a corner to a breathtaking view of a mist shrouded Teesdale. Breathing in the cold clear air, hearing the crunch of hard snow under my feet and looking down into a fading valley was heavenly.

Another grassy track took me back down into the real world and onto a endless lane. Then rarely used paths headed down to the river and I chased the rush of water heading downstream, rapidly gathering strength (the river that is, I was tiring as usual). I rejoined the Way and together we experienced some majestic scenery. There were steep slopes enclosing shallow meanders, grassy meadows and small woods, quarry workings and rock faces, the thundering of High Force and the tumbling of Low Force. Unusually I was not alone, with more people about than any other day so far. Strolling alongside the rest of the tourists, my destination was the traditional stone buildings of Middleton. Not bad for a short cut.