During the night the sky cleared and the temperature fell sharply. Cocooned in my sleeping bag I had no desire to get up and protect my food from the permanent residents of the bothy. Rather predictably then, this morning I found teeth marks in my cheese.
With no reason to hang around, I got up as soon as the window turned a lighter shade of blue. Putting on the cold and wet clothes from the day before was deeply unpleasant and I was soon ready to go. Crossing a small plank bridge that had been hidden under the foaming waters yesterday, I was glad to feel the weak sun on my face and take in the stunning vista of empty hills in the early morning light.
I had learnt the lessons of the previous day and stayed close to the river on my way back to the rough track. Over the watershed and down into Glen Tilt I trudged, following its arrow straight course downstream. The track stretched onwards to the narrow horizon as the scenery moved slowly past. I watched the wide river flow powerfully under steep grassy hillsides marked only by the precarious tracks of sheep. Stopping regularly to try and get messages, I stayed cut off from outside world and managed only to rest my weary feet.
Hours passed and eventually I left the paved road and took a pleasant track through a wood to reach a public road. Finally found out that instead of drowning my friend had sensibly decided not to cross Geldie Burn. Feeling a bit stupid for letting my imagination run wild, I no longer felt guilty for enjoying the walking. The Cairngorms had been conquered and I was ready to return to the comfortable trappings of civilisation. More tiring miles on hard surfaces led to Killiecrankie. Unfortunately the planned route along the river Garry was on private land so I took a small road up the side of the valley and was rewarded with superb views of concrete road and rail infrastructure squeezed into the narrow pass, overlooked by the snow covered dome of Ben Vrackie. By the time I reached the historic river crossing at Garry Bridge I was completely worn out. Having also run out of daylight the van can called on to provide accommodation in the car park. Luckily it came with sausage and chips, fantastic.
Walking from John O'Groats to Land's End in the winter of 07/08.
Thursday, 29 November 2007
Tarf Hotel to Garry Bridge
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